28.4.10

Moments


From humble beginnings as Paddington Bear’s coat of choice, to a runway regular seen at Paul Smith and Tommy Hilfiger, the Duffle has become a staple item for the bitter British winter. The original Naval windbreaker has developed over time into a coat for everyone, made by Royal appointment for Princess Anne and Prince Charles, and known to keep the Gallagher brothers warm as they travelled from one show to the next.

Easily recognisable by the toggle closure, this is often made of horn or wood and rope or leather. The fastening makes it easy for children – as well as bears - and the tartan lining stands out as a sign of British heritage. The town of Duffel in Belgium was the first place to produce the duffel wool, which has been synonymous with high-quality Duffle coats ever since. Gloverall, renowned makers of the classic Duffle, have collaborated with innovative designers, including Junya Watanabe of Comme des Garcons, adding leather patches to the shoulders and elbows to create their limited edition coats. It goes to show, even with a partnership such as this, a timeless design does not need to be tampered with.

There is a sense of nostalgia brought on when wearing a Duffle coat; a charm reminiscent of wintery schooldays, along with mittens, bobble hats and wellington boots. The memories of childhood can now be seen on indie kids, city workers and in the playground at home time. It has become a uniform for everybody, a little piece of youth to put a spring in one’s step.

The design has reappeared at McQ by Alexander McQueen; his take on the Duffle includes brightly-coloured toggles, offset by the grey wool of the coat itself, and a slightly oversized, less fitted silhouette, bringing a modern edge to the coat formerly worn by beatniks and CND activists in the 1950s.

After Paddington Bear arrived in London wearing only a bush hat and a label around his neck, little did the Brown family know that the Duffle coat they were soon to give to him would become a suitably characteristic item of clothing. Please look after this coat, thank you.

I bought my for tuppence at a charity sale. Didn't take it off all winter. There are times I am grateful for keen eyes.

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